I recommend you take full verified backup copies of files frequently, and of anything about to be changed.

As time passes and experience grows very gradually I am getting fewer anguished pleas for help recovering files.   But I still get some and of those, several will be from folks who thought that once backup had been setup when the PC was new  there was nothing further to do.

This is rarely the case.  Documents may be saved in new places, backup software may fail or disks become full.  For whatever reason it is important to periodically validate that your backup job is working as it should.  That is, check the log file or see the job in the scheduler.

But the work ‘verified’ is in my closing line for a reason: simply validating the backup is only half the job.  It needs to be verified periodically too.  That means trying to recover a file – not always the same type or way either.  Try recovering from different locations and under different potential scenarios.  This confirms that the files are actually being saved in a way that can be relied on and also keeps the method of how to restore them in your mind.

I have recently helped in the situation where the backup was validated and partially verified, but the owner had not tested the situation where the whole computer failed and recovery was to a new one.  In this case although the software to restore a file was available and could be installed on the new version of Windows, the catalogue that was used to index the hundreds of incremental backups was not saved.  So

I recommend you take full verified backup copies of files frequently, and of anything about to be changed.

• Encryption can make the device unusable or at least make your personal data inpenatrable. This can be done on the entire disk or just a folder or two. Truecrypt is a free program that may enable this.
• Sensible password protection will delay access to your device.  This means ensuring that a complex (at least 8 characters of mixed case and numbers) unique password has to be entered before the device can be powered up.
• Remote disabling devices are available for all handsets and third party apps. Once you notice your loss you just phone or log on to the appropriate place and have a signal sent to the device to disable it.  Examples include Find my iPhone, AndroidLost.com, Blackberry Protect, WindowsPhone.  And for laptops/tablets consider Prey. 
• Insurance can help with the replacement costs.
• Use a cloud based synchronization storage facility to replicate and backup important files. Eg. Dropbox, SkyDrive, Mozy.
• Mark the device in some way to help prove ownership - invisible ink perhaps. Also, retain a photograph of the serial number (not on the device itself though).

1. Run CMD.EXE to get a command prompt
2. Type set devmgr_show_nonpresent_devices=1 then <enter>
3. Start devmgmt.msc 

Within Device Manager Click Show hidden devices on the View menu.  Now you can right click the offending itme and uninstall it.

Note that although this shows ghost entries, not all can be safely uninstalled: those that are temporarily unconnected for example.

 In the unlikely event that this is to be a permenent change, it has to be set in the System properties, Advanced tab, Environment variables.

I did have a disaster recovery plan and I’m happy to report that it didn’t take long for me to get back in business with no lost data.  This really is essential if your computer is important to you.  You need to know when disaster strikes how you will resource replacement hardware in a suitable time frame (my clients could consider a loaner from me).   Also, how to get the necessary software (with suitable versions and license keys).  And of course how to recover data from your backup.

How could the disaster have been prevented ?  In my case I can’t be sure; normally when multiple components fail at the same time I find no working surge protector deployed.  But this was not the case for me as I have an uninterruptable power supply (UPS) which should do that job.  I know it is still working as I have tested it.  So my best guess is that either an electrical disturbance entered via my fax transmission cable or the TV antenna (I have now done away with both).  Alternatively, a failure in the power supply unit could conceivably have sent a jolt of juice through the system – certainly it was one of the components that had to be replaced.

My current concern is that the monitor screen may be on its last legs as it makes disturbing noises first thing in the morning.  But then so do I so I’m in no position to criticise.  I have already repaired it once (as reported on my blog of 12^th November 2010) so next time I may have to bite the bullet and splash the cash.

Sometimes the corruption is fatal, sometimes it does not bite you until a few weeks later, other times it will not affect you at all. To resolve most potential corruptions there are two things you may like to do.

First check and repair the disk drive. The following command will ensure the integrity of files, their indices, attributes and security descriptors as well as checking and if necessary repairing some disk control structures and identifying bad sectors. To do this you need to get to the Windows command prompt by entering CMD into the search box that appears when you click the orb at the bottom left of the task bar. Now right click CMD.EXE and Run as administrator. In the black window that appears type CHKDSK /R and press [enter]. You will be warned that the operation cannot start as the volume is in use by another process (Windows) and given the opportunity to schedule it next time the system restarts. Accept this an then be prepared for the computer to take 30 - 60 minutes to go through all 5 phases of the operation next time you start it. Repairs, if necessary, are automatic and there is no message indicating completion displayed on the screen when it eventually starts. If you are interested in the results you can interrogate the Event Viewer later.

Once the underlying structure of the disk is known to be good you can check the validity of Windows' own files. The following command will confirm that the important files' signatures are valid. If they are not you will be invited to insert your Windows DVD to facilitate the copying of the original file (this may be taken from an on-disk repository in later systems). To do this you need to get to the Windows command prompt by entering CMD into the search box that appears when you click the orb at the bottom left of the task bar. Now right click CMD.EXE and Run as administrator. In the black window that appears type SFC /SCANNOW and press [enter]. At the end of the operation (which will take about 10 minutes) you can type EXIT to close the window.

What would be worse would be if your password was one of the top 14 most popular and therefore least secure (as gleaned from analysis of the stolen records mentioned above) as by testing your account for these first a hacker would get a good chance of rapid success. So the time to change password would be right now if it is any of password, passw0rd, 123456, 12345678, 111111, iloveyou, qwerty, dragon, pussy, letmein, abc123, baseball, football or trustno1.

The only sensible way to handle the multiple passwords we all need these days is to have unique, complex and lengthy passwords on each occasion. And for all but Sheldon Cooper that means using a program to generate and remember those passwords for you. This does not have to cost you even. Possibilities include:

• 1Password
• RoboForm
• LastPass
• KeePass

For low value systems the best free product is Avast, although it does not offer the same level of protection as any of the above paid products.

Note that the Windows Defender (nee Security Essentials) is included in Windows 8 but performs less well than any of the above.

What makes BitDefender the best you may ask. The comparisons included impact on system performance, ease of use & configurability, detection rate for existing and zero day infections, false alarm rate, additional features and cost.

I will be buying BitDefender licenses wholesale and am happy to offer them at a much reduced cost compared to the producer's own website.

If a hardware fault is suspected then the Sale of Goods acts guarantee return or repair if the item is not as described, of unsatisfactory quality or not fit for the purpose described. Within six months it is for the seller to prove that the fault was not there at sale time. For the next 5.5 years you are covered but the onus is on you to prove the case.

Any warranty offered by the seller such as replacement within 21 days cannot detract from your statutory rights. Often this will only be of benefit if you simply change your mind and the product is in immediately resalable condition.

Note that it is the seller's responsibility to comply not the manufacturers. If you are directed to contact a party with whom you have no contract, such as the maker of the equipment, you should do so as an act of kindness maybe but you should remind the seller that this is done on their behalf to save them the trouble.

If you bought outside the UK then similar legislation applies in the EU but covers for no more than 2 years.

If you are considering taking extended warranty (a.k.a. insurance) from the supplier know that

1. This may not give you much more than your existing legal entitlement - read the small print carefully.
2. The seller will be making a profit on the warranty sale. If you really want extended coverage consider going to an insurance company or broker direct for a better deal.
3. If it doesn't break within the first year then it may well last for the full duration of life expectancy.